Sample of information given by me to prospective customers when I was thatching. Ill health has forced early 'retirement' apart from small scale see DIY SERVICES AVAILABLE Twenty Four Hour Emergency Service
Non Urgent Repairs
Major Works
Trouble shooting Service available I have been thatching since 1963, Served a 7 year apprenticeship followed by two years as a journeyman and have continued as a master thatcher in my own right since. While apprenticed I attended residential courses supplied by the then CoSIRA (now the COUNTRYSIDE AGENCY) and still regularly attend seminars to keep up with modern developments. I keep a store of materials in stock, enabling me to buy the very best materials as they become available and am able to offer the correct treatment to each roof's needs rather than have to "make do" with materials not suitable but just happen to be available at that particular time. Standards of workmanship do vary, so please do check the specification of each item on your estimates before deciding. Thickness, methods, of fixing should always be given for the main roof and ridge at least, The difference between a measure from the rafter or from the batten can mean difference in cost of 10% but the roof could be 1" thinner ! Most libraries and Councils have lists of Thatchers, as do the Countryside Commission, 141 Castle St. Salisbury) most of these Thatchers are members of recognised associations so you do at least have a remedy against such a member in case of disputes. Please note that all these observations are my own opinion and is not intended as a definitive description or specification for Thatching, merely a guide. Many regional and personal variations occur as the materials and properties are not standard. If your property is listed (it probably will be at grade 2) great care must be taken to ensure that the work complies with regulations that may be in force; In general you may not use a material type different to the original or allow a ridge to have a cut block pattern when none existed before. If you run foul of the regulations you may be forced to re instate The safe course is to contact your conservation officer. Some councils will also offer grant aid. POINTS TO LOOK FOR Ask the prospective thatcher to give you addresses of similar properties he has done, Where he is working at present and make a point of asking the house owner how they thought the job in general went, as well as the cost he will be on your roof for a long time and you have to get on. I certainly will look at you as a client ! If you as a house owner were asked how the thatching job went you had just had done, I am sure you would not mind. In general the angle of the material going on the roof should be as close as possible to the angle of the timbers or old coat, if for example a short reed on a roof of a slack pitch is used it can lower the angle of the material to such an alarming extent that the material will soak up water. On close examination the material should lie parallel and tight onto the rafters, but not over tight to the extent that it is crushed by the sway. The appearance should be slightly open on the surface to allow air to circulate the butt, if it is packed too tight then water will penetrate too far by capillary action and be unable to dry out. The top of the ridge should be as tight as possible with the apex as sharp as it can be made. Ideally the ridge should lie at a greater pitch than the main roof but in practice this is rarely done as the aesthetic appearance of the roof would be spoilt. General appearance should be pleasing, if something does not look right question it, but it could be that there is a very good reason. Most reputable Thatchers usually have a few months waiting list and in most cases this is required to order the correct materials. If a start is promised very early take extra care unless he has a very good reason. © Leo Wood 1990"Nuthatch" 16 West End Phone 01858 575782 Welford Mobile 07960 927106 Northamptonshire NN6 6HJ |
